VIGAN - UNESCO - PHILIPPINES

Vigan, Philippines, UNESCO World Heritage town.

The Philippines is the only country in Asia that is Christian.  And Vigan is a perfect product of this unusual & unique mix of Spanish Catholicism & Asian culture.

Vigan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site & it is a well preserved example of a Hispanic colonial town. First established in the 16th century as a trading port in far north Ilocos, 400 km north of Manila. It's a beautifuld old city to stroll around its cobbled streets or ride in a traditional 'kalesa', a horse drawn cart.

But Vigan has a bloody & brutal past. When the Spanish arrived led by Captain Salcedo, grandson to a famous conquistador, they immedeiately attacked the native community who retreated from the cannon fire. A fort was then built. It has been a hot bed of political unrest, revolts & uprisings ever since. In the 1700's an anti-Spanish revolt was led by Silang who had been appointed by the British. He was shot in the back by collaboraters. His wife carried on the cause until she was captured & publicly hanged. In the 1800's, three priests were martyred for mutiny against Spanish control. Father Jose Burgos was born in Vigan & educated in Manila where he obtained 3 undergraduate degrees with honours, 2 masters degrees & 2 doctorates. He questioned racism & nationalism and his liberal views, along with Fathers Gomaz & Zamora, led to their arrests. They were publicly garoted. A Spanish strangulation with an iron collar tightened with a screw. There is an informative museum, in his ancestral home, dedicated to this intelligent & compassionate man. Filled with antiques, personal & family memorabilia, it is a glorious tribute to Father Burgos. The deaths of the martyred priests is believed to have triggered the downfall of Spanish rule, 25 years later.

There are several really good museums in Vigan & another one well worth a visit, is in the Crisologo family ancestral home. A powerful political family that suffered several assasinations. Again, lots of interesting memorabilia, an intense insight into yester-year in Vigan. In fact all of Vigan is like a living museum.

Accomodation is great with a huge choice of  historical hotels loaded with character & artwork. Architecture is a fusion of European & Asian, built from local timber, limestone, terracotta & shells. It's even possible to sleep in a bed made from the carriage of a 'kalesa', just for a bit of novelty sake.

Cuisine is not a highlight oin the Philippines. But in Vigan, the local food fares better than most of the country. The empanadas, deep fried, and the shrimp pancakes are the specialities of the town. And of course the 'balut', a boiled fertilized egg, the embryo in different stages of development, is a national dish or snack, that needs to be tried at least once.

Vigan is an unforgetable experience like nowhere else. The streets & shops are a delight, you could just poke around all day. And the reataurants & bars have a unique and 'other worldly' ambience. It has an uncluttered & uncrowded feel to it that is rarely found in the Philippines and is well worth a lengthy visit. There is something new, or rather very old, around every corner.

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