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Luang Prabang is one of my favourite places on the planet. And for no good reason but for a multitude of excellent reasons.
Luang Prabang is a world heritage UNESCO site and is perfectly perched on a peninsula formed by the Nam Khong river converging into the mighty Mekong. Surrounded by cloud shrouded mountains, it is geographically blessed. The town itself a fusion of exquisite traditional Laos architecture & French colonial influences. There are no monstously massive constructures, no shopping malls, no electronic flashy signs, no traffic lights, no hideous noise, in fact Luang Prabang is special for all the things it doesnt have.
It does have a beautiful blend of Asia & the Mediteranean. An atmosphere that encourages slow walks & long talks around its scenic streets & soi's. Long conversations over an industrial strength Laos coffee is the unhurried style of Luang Prabang.
Once the royal capital of Laos until the communist take-over in 1975. The king & the royal family were interned in prison in the north. It is reported that they died of malaria but no one really knows. Luang Prabang is still the spiritual capital & the many monasteries are quite magnificent & quite old. They are well maintained by the monks who have been taught to preserve them, as part of their merit, in traditional Laos style. Their chanting & drumming can be heard all over & l'm sure contributes to the generally tranquility of the town.
The night market in Luang Prabang is the tidiest & most pleasant market l have ever seen anywhere. It is so polite! Of course bartering is expected but it is performed in such a good natured & civilized manner, it becomes such a joy & so much fun. Unlike many other Asian markets. After agreeing on a purchase & a price, l always feel like l received extra value from the interaction & the experience.
Laos people always seem happy & never complain. It appears that the people dont have alot but they have enough. And they are happy to share it. Because l alaways travel on my own, l am always invited to join in with family meals. I think they feel sorry for me, it would be seen as an extremely sad state of affairs to be eating alone. Laos people are very social & communal, and families sit outside in the balmy evenings sharing food & conversation. They enjoy hearing about the outside world but there is such a contentment in their world, l feel they have little desire to actually go there.
l think they feel blessed. And I think they are too. This endorsed by the fact that so many tourists travel so many miles to visit there.
Luang Prabang can be reached by 2 day boat trip down the Mekong from the Thai border town of Chiang Khong, stopping 1 night in the grotty river town of Pak Beng. Or from the capital Ventiene, 10 hrs by bus, or Vang Vieng, 6 hrs by bus. It is well worth the effort of getting there. And I am looking forward to my return in July. Sitting by the Mekong, sun sinking behind the mountains, crispy cold Beer Laos in hand, an Indonesian cigarette in the other, and all is good with the world.
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