PERHENTIANS - PERFECTION

Perhentian lslands are the perfect paradise in NE Malaysia. Arriving after a sleepless over-night bus into Kuala Besut, it was a relief to see the sun rise over the South East China Sea. lt's a typical bustling murky port that quickly gives way to a beautiful royal blue on the 30min speed boat trip to the islands. Travelling with 2 Dutch back-packers, our grumpy moods soon transform & our smiles return. Long Beach on Kecil (small) island is the more popular spot for back-packers. Palm-fringed, powder white sand, azure blue water & the usual superlatives for a tropical paradise, are inadequate in describing the Perhentian lslands. The diving being the main draw-card, with easy access to snorkelling & scuba, & guaranteed sightings of turtles, reef sharks, fish of every tropical colour & variety. But more than anything it's the perfect crystal clarity & temperature that make this place special. Among so many well-travelled back-packers, we all agree, we have never experienced anything like it elsewhere. We can only guess at the temperature, but it's perfect. The kind of water you can swim in all day & never feel it. And the visibility is endless with just a slight turquoise tinge in the far distance.



lt's been 5 yrs since l'd been there & not much had changed. Very basic accommodation in beach chalets cost about 50RM ($15). And the scenery is priceless. lt's not always as easy to find as it used to be  & one of the reasons we'd decided to arrive as early as possible. Late arrivers can be forced to sleep on the beach. Not the worst place in the world to sleep. l met a 70yr old German-Australian quite happily sleeping on the beach. Food is of course a bit more expensive than the mainland. At night the tiki-torches are lit & every sea-side reataurant is offering the same seafood barbeque for 25RM ($8). Alcohol is expensive also compared to other Malaysian islands like Langkawi & Tioman which are duty-free. But it doesnt seem to deter anyone from partying & the beach bars are full with everyone sharing their photos of the day's dive. Snorkelling costs about 50RM ($15) for about 5hrs, including lunch & 5 differently incredible dive points. It's also one of the cheapesst places in the world to obtain a PADI open water dive ticket. Packages include accommodation.

Cost of bus from Kuala Lumpur to Kuala Besut is 40 RM ($13) & takes 7 hrs. Boat trip to islands is 35 RM ($12).

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LANGKAWI CURSE

Beautiful Langkawi was under a curse until 1987. Since then the 99 island archipeligo has gone through a massive tourist boom & become a well known international destination. While trying to steer clear of touristy type & hype islands,  l have discovered now that l had been cheating myself of a surprisingly unique experience.  Perched in the NW of Malaysia, near the border of Thailand,  l   I had purposely skirted past it many times. But sometimes the beaten path is well beaten for good reason. And so it is with Langkawi.

Legend has it that in the late 1700's,  a beautiful woman named Mahsuri was falsely accused by her jealous mother-in-law, of adultery. She was sentenced to death by the chief & tied to a tree & stabbed with her family kris (dagger). Her wounds bled white blood, the sign of her innocence. With her last breath she cursed the island for 7 generations.  Decades of failed crops followed, as well as attacks & take-overs from Thailand. Then 25 yrs ago, 7 generations later strangely enough, the sultan proclaimed Langkawi as a duty-free island & it's now become a prosperous & well known holiday playground with all the toys such as jet-skis, banana boats & para-flying.

I stayed at Cenang  Beach, the most popular & touristy, lined with beach bars, seafood restaurants, happy hours & cheap cocktails at sunset ($2.50). Plentiful array of choices in accommodation ranging from 5star to bare-arse back-packing. The problem with staying at the budget end is envying all the resort hotels with pool-side service. The street is full of duty-free stores tempting with all the name brands as well as the mandatory chocolates & alcohol. Bottle of duty-free vodka, 1litre, $12!

But Langkawi is also blessed with an amazing amount of natural beauty & was classed as a geo-park by UNESCO. lt really does have it all, lush jungle, waterfalls & mangrove estuaries, wildlife & marine parks. We went on a 3 island hop & it was surprisingly better than anticipated. Each island experience was uniquely different & well-worthy of a visit. Went to the Pregnant Maiden Lake, a huge, deep freshwater lake that feels eerily bottomless. Apparently it has magical powers that increases fertility. lf fertilization is not on the itinerary, maybe it should be avoided. Cheeky monkeys can be aggressive if they suspect bags carrying food.  Massive sea-eagles, mascot & symbol of the islands, swoop the bay hauling fish with their talon claws. There's always something happening but in a lovely kick-back way. Langkawi is a lovely surprise all round. Yeah it is touristy but for good reason.

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MYANMAR - BEAUTIFUL BURMA

The Golden Pagoda, Shwedagon, yangon Myanmar.

Myanmar is still known to most of the world as Burma. And Myanmar is opening up to the world. It has now become a travel hot spot and prices are being pushed up by the shortage in accommodation. It has become more expensive than its Asian neighbours but it is well worth it. And now is definitely the time to go while tourism is still in its infancy. This is a rare & never to be repeated opportunity to see Myanmar while it is still uniquely Burmese & not yet diluted by Western influences.

It was my first time there so had booked in advance for the first few days in Yangon. Motherland Inn 2 was well reccommended by the usual sites & l booked through email. l received an immediate reply and because credit cards are not accepted in most of Myanmar, a cyber handshake was accepted. A free pickup from the airport was offered & gratefully received. How good was it as a solo backpacker to arrive in Yangon & be welcomed by a couple of smiling Burmese boys dressed in traditional longyi, holding my name high over their heads!

I was the only pickup & was given the special treatment. Motherland lnn 2 is about half an hour from the airport but the boys generously treated me to a city tour on the way. We stopped outside the magnificent Shwe Dagon. It was night & it was perfectly lit & dazzingly beautiful. As we had flown in to Yangon earlier l had noticed the golden gleaming, but from the ground it was massively impressive. My young cheeky guides proudly showed me several city sights & a stunning silver mirrored temple that l never did see again. I milked them for information, local & general, about Myanmar & learnt a few words in Burmese. By the time we arrived at Motherland, I was already in love with Myanmar.

l impressed the staff with my Burmese greeting & they were happy, helpful & hospitable. The next day was my birthday, this trip to Myanmar was a birthday gift to myself. Breakfast was included & when l entered downstairs, there was a birthday cake with my name on it. The staff had seen my birth date on my passport when l checked in. I'm assuming they do this for all their birthday guests and the staff were the first to line up with their plates as l cut the cake. lt was such an extremely lovely touch for me being so far from home on my birthday alone. And l couldn't receive any calls or messages on fb, Myanmar is still very isolated in that regard. So l can well recommend Motherland lnn 2 and was warmly greeted back there at the end of my journey as well. 

Legend has it that Shwedagon is 2,500 years old. Historians age it at 6th-10th century CE. The pagoda is 99 metres high, covered in gold leaf that has been deposited onto it by devotees for centuries. Several kings & queens apparently had their weight in gold added. The stupa is encrusted with thousands of diamonds & rubies and the crown of the stupa is topped wth a 76 carat diamond which can be viewd through a telescope from the platform. Shwedagon is a magnificent example of Burmese art & arhitecture and an insight into the devoted lives of the Burmese as they pray, meditate & wash the statues.

 First destination out of the city was Bagan. Arriving in the early hours by bus, l was woken to find a horse & cart was the mode of transport being offered. It felt like l was dreaming as we clip clopped through the silent streets to my driver's recommended hostel. Fuel is very expensive in Myanmar so horse & cart is a sensible alternative. And also the best way to visit the temples. The temples & pagodas of Bagan are gob-smacking. Over 10,000 were built but due to mostly earthquakes, there is 2200 left which is more than enough from a tourist's point of view. At certain times of year there are hot air-balloons and it must be one of the greatest sights on earth to drift across the plain viewing all those spectacular pieces of archaeological architecture.

A good round trip in Myanmar is from Yangon, then to Bagan, then Mandalay, onto Inle Lake & back to Yangon. Next time l plan to hike Kalaw to inle Lake and also take a slow boat down the Irrawaddy River. I know l need to get back there soon. The people are trying to recover from the hideousness of the military regime & find political freedom. At the moment they are quietly embracing tourism as a permanent economic source. It is almost like the last place in SE Asia that you can experience an almost untouched culture. There are no Thai soap operas or staff playing with their phones while you try & attract their attention. No 'in your face' vendors & peddlars and no bartering. There is a simple genuine gentleness in the people and they can still smile despite their suffering & poverty. It is not a dangerous place. Considering all tourists are almost guaranteed to be carrying large sums of cash, l didnt hear of any theft. Money changing scams, yes! English is well spoken due to colonization from 1824 to 1948. Food is still very cheap and ice very expensive.  It really was surprisingly easy to get around and recommend anyone considering going, will not be disappointed. Get there soon.

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BANAUE - UNESCO - PHILIPPINES

Banaue Rice Terraces

Banaue Rice Teraces are over 2000 years old & carved into the Cordillera Mountains by the ancient Ifagao people. Filipinos like to call them the 8th Wonder of the World.

Situated 5000 ft above sea level, in 5 clusters covering 10,000 sq km. And fed by an ancient irrigation system from the rainforest above.


The natural scenic panorama combined with the engineering achievement creates a sculptured masterpiece of unparalleled beauty.
Banaue Rice Teracces have been continuously farmed for 2 millennium and are a natural cultural landscape, ensuring them of a UNESCO World Heritage listing.

Unfortunately they have become a victim of their own popularity. Now that the Banaue Rice Terraces have become a tourist destination, many young people are now being employed in the more lucrative tourist industry as tour guides or in hospitality. Fewer Ifagao people are finding farming appealing & the terraces are under disrepair. The result is the gradual erosion of the steps, exacerbated by typhoons & earthquakes. Without the laborious maintenance, the Rice Terraces of Banaue will eventually deteriorate into ruins. Many people believe there is only limited time left to conserve the World Heritage site now.

The Ifagao people were master wood carvers as well. Maybe that is why they were so proficient at carving the terraces out of the mountains. Their other claim to fame was they were ferocious head hunters. More of a sport for young warriors. there were rituals & omens involved with the expeditions. Avenge & revenge continued through the centuries right up until the 1970's. The jaw bone was a prized possession & my Igarot friends are proud owners of 3 jaw bones handed down from their grandfather.
In Bontoc near by, there is an excellent museum depicting tribal life in the mountains with exhibits & confronting black & white photographs of head hunters.
The Cordillera Mountains have attempted to maintain a quiet lifestyle in their towns & curfews exist. I spent one Saturday night in Bontoc & when leaving a restaurant at 10pm, was unable to find a taxi to get back to my hotel. After approaching a couple of policemen & requesting help, they sent a police car to take me home. Impressed & grateful for their gesture & assurance that l get home safe. But l chucked to myself that l needed a police escort home because l had stayed out past 10 pm on a Saturday night!

Banaue is 8 or 9 hrs from Manila by bus. I travelled it at night & it was the coldest bus trip that l have had in my life. Apparently the bus driver falls asleep if it's too warm! The roads are dangerous as they spine along the top as the mountains. Bus journeys are long but the views are spectacular. A good round trip is from Manila to Baguio, then to Sagada, on to Bontoc & Banaue, then back to Manila. Allow about 9 days. The Cordillera Mountains are scenically stunning & culturally interesting. It is also a very popular destination with Filipinos as well as they  escape from the constant heat of the lowlands and enjoy the cool clean mountains.


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BANGKOK - BANG FOR YOUR BUCK

Khao San Road by night, Bangkok.

Bangkok is the banging heart of SE Asia. It's where most SE Asian treks begin & end. And Khao San Road is the backpacking epicentre for Bangkok budget accommodation, cheap fares, live music, street bars & $2 cocktails. At night it's a carnival of bright lights & non-stop entertainment. There's something always happening. A stroll down the crowded Khao San Road takes longer than thought because of this. Peddlars are selling fake branded watches, fake tattoos, T Shirts, jewellery, deep fried scorpions & bugs. Tribal people from northern Thailand, dressed in costume, sell their crafts & wooden frogs that make a croaking sound. l know l am back in Thailand when l hear that sound. Massage chairs spill out onto the street so it's possible to get a leg massage and a cocktail and still people-watch. Value for money, it's hard to beat, and tourists are eager to part with their baht.

On my first trip to Asia many years ago, l arrived in Bangkok about 5 am and l was admittedly very frightened. Forced to go out looking for bottled water, it's a bad sign when your hotel has no drinking water! The night was morphing into morning & the grotty remains of the night were being hosed away. It felt so seedy & sordid. But l survived and l now chuckle to myself  about that night. Khao San Rd is far from dangerous. But l do suggest to anyone considering going to SE Asia on their own for the first time, to begin in Singapore if possible. Singapore is extremely safe & alot less of a culture shock.

From Bangkok, the rest of Asia is open & easy to get to. For about $20 there is an overnight train to Chiang Mai in the north. Or there is an overnight train to the Laos border. There's a night bus down to Surat Thani where there is access to all the party islands & resorts. Or there is a $10 day bus to Siem Reap in Cambodia. There is a bit of a scam at the border but it can be avoided by paying for a visa in advance.

Sight seeing is simple by tuk tuk or organize a city tour. The ornately beautiful Royal Palace is a must & epitomises Thai culture. Also the floating markets are a unique example of life in Bangkok. The Golden Buddha has an interesting story. For centuries it was covered in colourful plaster, hiding its 5.5 ton of gold beneath it. It is believed that monks covered it in plaster to protect it from marauding armies, possibly the Burmese.  Somehow the secret was kept & then lost. The 3m statue of Buddha was well revered & honoured and when moving it to a new location in the 1950's, the plaster cracked & revealed the 5 1/2 ton of solid gold!

Food is fabulous in Bangkok from banquets to street food. And as someone once said, 'There is no such thing as a bad Thai restaurant.' Street vendors nosh up a $1 pad thai and the backpackers favourite, banana pancakes. Green papaya salad is a lunch time mainstay.

Accommodation ranges from extremely affordable 5 star suites to a cupboard with a mattress & a fan for 7 bucks. It's one of the few places in the world that l book in advance. No matter what's happening politically or in the economy, Bangkok is always buzzing. And no matter what time of day or night, people are arriving & departing. And the best part about Bangkok for me, is meeting some of these people from all over the world. It really is an international city. And unlike the movie 'The Hangover,' a night out in Bangkok with new friends is usually an unforgettable experience.

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KERALA - KICK BACK & KOOL

Chinese fishing nets, Fort Kochi, Kerala, lndia.

Kerala is kick back & kool. And if anyone l know is considering going to lndia, l always suggest starting their journey in Kerala, a south western state in lndia. It's less intense & less densely populated, and by the Arabian Sea, it's a few degrees cooler. It's a breeze strolling around the spice-scented streets, buying fresh seafood directly from the fisherman.The chinese nets were introduced to Kerala by the Chinese many centuries ago. Kochi is a major trading port & spices are its claim to fame. And they have been sought after by the Chinese, the Arabians, the Greeks & Romans back as far as BC.

Kerala is also known as the Land of Coconuts & it's obvious when flying into Kochi airport. The first place to head is Fort Kochi and once there, it is difficult to leave. The rich cuisine is the best in lndia and the salivating smells & aromas waft around every corner. Colonized by the Portugese, there is also a lovely mediteranean feel about the town reflected in the architecture & flower boxes. Beautiful basillicas & churches are historically interesting. St Francis church is the site where the famous explorer, Vasco De Gama, was buried there after he died from malaria in 1524. His son visited there many years later & took his father's remains back to Lisbon for burial.

Kerala is probably best known for its back waters & it's almost manditory to take a cruise around the canals & lakes. Barges that were originally built for transporting rice harvested in the back waters, have been tansformed in to house-boats and have become popular with tourists. Of varying luxury, price & size, some include all meals & staff.

Another draw-card in Kerala are all the Ayervedic retreats all over the state. Ayerveda means 'life knowledge' and has become a popular alternative medicine in the Western world. It has been practiced in lndia for millenium as well as Sri Lanka. Retreats offer diagnosis, remedies, yoga, meditation, massages & all vegetarian meals. Or just for a treat, an hour or two long Ayervedic oil massage is unforgettable, anywhere in Kerala.

Other attractions are the Dutch Palace which is a wooden mansion & museum that was built for the Rajas of Kochi. And also the Jewish synagogue that is the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth. There are a regular ferries from Fort Kochi to other areas & islands of the magnificent harbour, costs a few rupees.

Accommodation covers all range & prices. Hostels cost from about $10 pn. Fabulous food cannot be avoided & it's cheap & available & everywhere. Alcohol, l found a little more more difficult to access. But there are a few non-descript bars offering barely cold Kingfisher beer, for around $3.

Kerala is a great place to begin or end a journey in India. For first timers it's less of a culture shock & less in your face. Ernakulum train station is about half an hour away & has train routes to anywhere in  India. The airport is an hour or so depending on the congestion of traffic. And for those about to leave for other parts of the world, Kerala is a great place to wind down & soak up lndia at a slower chilled out pace. Fort Kochi is one of my favourite places in the world & it's worth going just for the  'biryani' alone.

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CHENREZIG - TIBETAN DEITY OF COMPASSION

Chenrrezig is the name of the Instiute & the embodiment   of a thousand arms of compassion.


Chenrezig Buddhist Institute is located in the hinterland of the beautiful Sunshine Coast. It is the largest of its kind in the Western world. In 2011, the Dalai Lama honoured the institute by formerly opening & blessing the "Garden of Enlightenment', a decorative garden of stupas & shrines built by the residents & volunteers of Chenrezig over many years.

I first visited there years ago when attending a weekend course "Buddhism in a Nutshell.' l had been rostered off for the weekend & saw it as a sign from the gods. Chenrezig is not so easy to find & l got lost. After arriving late & stressed, l quickly ran up the hill & steps from the carpark to the gompa. My attempt to sneak in to the class that was already in meditation, was marred by my breathless panting, amplified in the silence. Very unholy! Who would have thought that the path to spiritually would be so steep & physically exhausting?

The facilitating nun was a Canadian olympic rower & claimed that because of  years of sitting in a boat, she did not feel discomfort in sitting for long periods in meditation. It was explained that Buddhism was centred around the teachings of the Four Noble Truths. The first one being, 'Life is Suffering.' Thinking that it sounded like a negative start to a religion, or rather philosophy, l voiced my opinion, and a debate began. The word 'dukkha' can also mean dissatisfaction, l just thought 'suffering' was a bit harsh. Buddhism encourages debate & Buddha was a convincing debater, of course. He told his students to question everything and to never accept anything on blind faith.
Sure enough in the many years since, life has proved to me that life CAN be suffering. And through the practices & teachings of Buddhism, we can release ourselves of the pain.

For 37 years, those involved with Chenrezig were planning, praying & contemplating, the coming of His Holiness. Established in 1974 after two Tibetan monks conducted a one month meditation course. About 150 acres of an arid pineapple farm were donated & now the institute has grown into a lush tropical retreat. A well respected place of learning, it offers a large variety of classes, short courses & indepth extended courses. Not just a place of learning, it is also a peaceful place to spend the day, or a few days or just a class in meditation. There is an excellent eccletic library & the Big Love cafe serves up delectable vegetarian meals every day. And the best chai & brownies on the coast.

It is the home of a large community of monks & nuns, also a Tibetan Lama and many students & volunteers. An exceptional opportunity to study there, is to volunteer. For exchange for about 30 hrs work a week, the institute offers accommodation, meals & access to classes. At least one month's commitment is required. Or day volunteering is available which is what l do. One day a week in the kitchen, when l'm home, learning more about vegetarian cooking, learning about Buddhism and making good friends from all walks of life from all over the world.

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VIGAN - UNESCO - PHILIPPINES

Vigan, Philippines, UNESCO World Heritage town.

The Philippines is the only country in Asia that is Christian.  And Vigan is a perfect product of this unusual & unique mix of Spanish Catholicism & Asian culture.

Vigan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site & it is a well preserved example of a Hispanic colonial town. First established in the 16th century as a trading port in far north Ilocos, 400 km north of Manila. It's a beautifuld old city to stroll around its cobbled streets or ride in a traditional 'kalesa', a horse drawn cart.

But Vigan has a bloody & brutal past. When the Spanish arrived led by Captain Salcedo, grandson to a famous conquistador, they immedeiately attacked the native community who retreated from the cannon fire. A fort was then built. It has been a hot bed of political unrest, revolts & uprisings ever since. In the 1700's an anti-Spanish revolt was led by Silang who had been appointed by the British. He was shot in the back by collaboraters. His wife carried on the cause until she was captured & publicly hanged. In the 1800's, three priests were martyred for mutiny against Spanish control. Father Jose Burgos was born in Vigan & educated in Manila where he obtained 3 undergraduate degrees with honours, 2 masters degrees & 2 doctorates. He questioned racism & nationalism and his liberal views, along with Fathers Gomaz & Zamora, led to their arrests. They were publicly garoted. A Spanish strangulation with an iron collar tightened with a screw. There is an informative museum, in his ancestral home, dedicated to this intelligent & compassionate man. Filled with antiques, personal & family memorabilia, it is a glorious tribute to Father Burgos. The deaths of the martyred priests is believed to have triggered the downfall of Spanish rule, 25 years later.

There are several really good museums in Vigan & another one well worth a visit, is in the Crisologo family ancestral home. A powerful political family that suffered several assasinations. Again, lots of interesting memorabilia, an intense insight into yester-year in Vigan. In fact all of Vigan is like a living museum.

Accomodation is great with a huge choice of  historical hotels loaded with character & artwork. Architecture is a fusion of European & Asian, built from local timber, limestone, terracotta & shells. It's even possible to sleep in a bed made from the carriage of a 'kalesa', just for a bit of novelty sake.

Cuisine is not a highlight oin the Philippines. But in Vigan, the local food fares better than most of the country. The empanadas, deep fried, and the shrimp pancakes are the specialities of the town. And of course the 'balut', a boiled fertilized egg, the embryo in different stages of development, is a national dish or snack, that needs to be tried at least once.

Vigan is an unforgetable experience like nowhere else. The streets & shops are a delight, you could just poke around all day. And the reataurants & bars have a unique and 'other worldly' ambience. It has an uncluttered & uncrowded feel to it that is rarely found in the Philippines and is well worth a lengthy visit. There is something new, or rather very old, around every corner.

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BRUNEI - via the EMPIRE HOTEL

Brunei, view from the Empire Hotel over the South China Sea.


Brunei is a sovereign state on the island of Borneo. Oil was discovered there in the 1920's and changed the future of Brunei forever. The Sultan O Brunei was the richest man in the world at some point but lost the title to Bill Gates. If oil holds its price & the income keeps rolling in, his eldest son may become the first trillionaire in the world.

Borneo & Brunei were always places that l dreamt of going. It conjures up exotic visions of dense jungles, weird wild life & head hunters. So after exploring Sabah, l had planned on finding my way, some way, down south to Sarawak. But then noticed that Brunei fell between the two Malaysian states. Searching for hostels online for the capital BSB (Banda Sera Bagawan), l found that Brunei does not really cater for backpackers. The best option was a cheap hotel & it's not that cheap, $60 pn! My loyal Lonely Planet recommended a splurge at the Empire Hotel, a lavish & luxury 6 star resort. A once in a life time extravagance. So while sipping on scotch, l researched the Empire Hotel. The description & photos were phenomenal & Agoda was offering a 50% discount of $300 for 2 nights. Peanuts really by Western standards & even more affordable if there were two of me. But $300 represented one month's budget for accommodation. So while continuing with my scotch & arguing with myself about the expense, value for money, $120 for 2 nights for a no star hotel or $300 for 2 nights at a 6 star hotel. Next morning l woke up to an email confirming my booking at the Empire Hotel. A credit card, a laptop & alcohol can be a dangerous combination.

The cheapest way to get there was by ferry to Labuan, a duty free island port where l grabbed a $10 bottle of rum & just as importantly, some cans of coke. Brunei is a Muslim nation & alcohol is prohibited but private consumption by non Muslims is allowable. And coke in mini-bars in luxury hotels has a luxury price tag. From there, another ferry ride & then a taxi ride & then it happened. The immaculately dressed porter opened the door & l stepped into another world. The foyer was gob-smackingly opulent, massive marble pillars & a million dollar chandelier made from gold & baccarat crystal. The porter attended to my luggage, a grubby backpack stained with the grime of Asia & Africa. Dressed in backpacking attire, I was treated like a queen & the valet escorted me to my room by buggy. After explaining the features of the room, the valet opened up the balcony over looking the South China Sea.
I had never experienced such luxury, the marble bathroom was bigger than most rooms l had ever stayed in. It felt like the whole place was carved out of solid marble. A plate of sweet cakes for two lay on the table & l immediately ordered some ice for my rum & coke hidden in the bottom of my pack.

The resort has 5 pools, a golf course, a country club with indoor pool, cinemas & numerous restaurants. The gardens were lush & lavish & the pathways manicured to perfection. Situated right on the sea & right next to the oldest rainforest in Borneo. Fortunately because of the wealth of Brunei, there was financially no need to log the land or sell it off to palm oil plantations like elsewhere in Borneo.

Built by Prince Jefri, the sultan's brother, for a casino. The sultan then had to inform his dumb brother that they were Muslims & casinos were not allowed. So he offered it to the sultan as a guesthouse. The sultan lives in the largest palace in the world, surely there is room for guests. So it was decided to transform it into a resort & try to recoup some of the one billion dollars spent on it. The sultan discovered that Prince Jefri had embezzled 9 billion pounds from the coffers. It is reported now that he has been forced to live on a $150,000 per month allowance.

Planning to see Brunei, but then quickly distracted by the affluent atmosphere, I actually never left the resort. For 2 days l soaked up the sun & the opulence of my surroundings.
I strolled around the vastness of the marble multi-levels like it was my royal right. I walked along the beach in the evenings to see the most exquisite sunsets over the South China Sea. And in the mornings l would run out onto the balcony & be dazzled by where l was staying .l don't regret one cent, it really was a chance in a life time. And l recommend anyone, in fact every one, to treat themselves to the experience of staying at this 6 star establishment. Unregrettable & unforgettable!! Sometimes you just gotta do it.

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HAMPI, INDIA - HISTORY & HERITAGE

The stone carved chariot is a shrine to Garuda.


Hampi is a city of ruins.  And it's absolutely awesome! A UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason, it was once the capital of the Vijayanagra empire, a wealthy & powerful empire that existed from the 1300's to the 1600's. Though the ruins appeared alot more ancient to me.


I had never heard of Hampi until l was travelling between Kerala & Goa, India. A fellow backpacker recommended going there, a little out of my way, it is inland from the west coast in the state of Karnataka. And l am so delighted that l did. What a gob-smacking surprise!

Visually stunning, the magnificent temples & monuments contrast against the rock riddled landscape. It is awe-inspiring to walk amongst the grandeur & beauty of the religious & royal structures. The site covers about 25 sq km & it is necessary to hire a tuk tuk. Archaeologists & architecture enthusiasts could lose themselves while discovering & exploring everything that historic Hampi has to offer.

Sunrise & sunset sets a wonderful golden glow & energy over the town & its surroundings. It's beautiful viewed from central hill. Now that Hampi is a small rural town, it feels like life has remained unchanged for centuries. In the cool of the evening, the young men play cricket amongst the ruins. And l have fond memories of observing village life & watching the cricket. Their passion for cricket in India is obsessive, or even fanatical. Every TV or radio broadcast in every home, bar or restaurant is tuned into the cricket. And l eventually succombed to their joy in cricket, it's unavoidable. So l always enjoyed watching the children play, anywhere there is room to bowl a ball.

It is a very dry heat in Hampi, 40 odd degrees in the summer. Because it is a religious area, there is no alcohol or meat allowed in the town. Being an Aussie, it was difficult to get through the heat of the day on chai & water alone. There are many roof top restaurants that catch a breeze & offer spectacular views. But overall, the food is disappointing in Hampi.
 A short tuk tuk ride to a neighbouring town can find a cold beer.

There is a wonderful volunteering opportunity at the Hampi Children's Trust. It was begun by a local man & an English man. It is genuine & sincere. The children are educated & fed 3 meals a day. A worthy place to donate school items if time does not allow time to volunteer. Information is easily available & the school  is easily found.

The nearest train station is Hospet about 15 km away. From there, all trains head in all directions. Hampi is well worth the visit & the effort to get there. Accommodation is nothing special but there is an island in the river with some pleasant stays. It is free to enter most historical sites & costs a few rupees in others. Some charge a camera fee but the photos are always sensational stand outs & the experience of Hampi is priceless.

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MUMBAI - via SHANTARAM

GATEWAY TO INDIA.

Mumbai is the most populous city in India & the 4th most populous in the world. And that's the main reason that l had avoided going there for years. And l had been cheating myself out of an awesome experience.

Whilst in Goa, a young local man was surprised that l had never read or even heard of the book 'Shantaram.'  He knew the Australian author & owned a signed copy of the book. And he insisted taking me to a book store & buy it immediately. A bit wary of the size of the book (930 pages) l hesitated because as a backpacker, every ounce counts. And l was already toting a Lonely Planet India which I was sure weighed a couple of kilos. But l am pleased that l did & it became my favourite book ever & inspired me to go to Mumbai.

Travelling on the over-night train, the gothically grand Victoria Terminus is the entry point into Mumbai. Renamed the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in 1996, it is still mostly called VT (Victoria Terminus) by the 20 million people that sprawl through the cosmopolitan metropolis of Mumbai. VT is a UNESCO World Heritage site & it epitomises everything about Mumbai. A combination of Victorian gothic, palacial Indian architecture, the affluences of the British Raj, the influences of the rennaisance, the hub of Indian rail & the throng of the Mumbai masses. They say over 100,000 people pass through VT every day bit l am sure that they let off a zero.

The city was once known as Bombay & it is grand in its British architecture. The Gateway to India is the iconic symbol of Mumbai. The bold basalt arch was built to comemerate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. It became the ceremonial entrance into India by sea. A monumental memento. Also a top spot for a leisurely walk, to catch a sea breeze & people watch. Directly opposite the imposing & prestigious Taj Mahal Hotel.

Mumbai is a vibrant city of contrasts. An ancient seaport with a modern flair. It is the financial centre od South Asia & yet almost half the population lives in poverty. Centuries old markets sit along side of air-conditioned malls. Skyscrapers alongside slums. It's like it has its feet in two worlds. Once you embrace the chaos & traffic, the heat & the overcrowded trains, you notice the space & occasional places of tranquility.

'Shantaram' captures Mumbai perfectly with his poetic descriptions & analogies. He describes sweetly & vividly the smells, the flavours, the colours, the noise & the feel of Mumbai, every sense is conscious. The book became my best travel companion & is a wonderful talking point when you notice someone else reading it. The movie rights were sold to Johnny Depp but so far the production still has nit begun. An Australian should be playing Gregory David Roberts not Depp. And l doubt if a movie could ever capture the feeling & essence of the book or of Mumbai.
Best thing to do is go there, it is an exciting & exotic city. Definitely a place to embrace & not to be avoided.

www.shakespearestravels.com

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LUANG PRABANG, LAOS. BLISSFULL BUDDHIST & BEAUTIFUL

Monks taking alms, a morning spiritual practice in all Buddhist countries.


Luang Prabang is one of my favourite places on the planet. And for no good reason but for a multitude of excellent reasons.

Luang Prabang is a world heritage UNESCO site and is perfectly perched on a peninsula formed by the Nam Khong river converging into the mighty Mekong. Surrounded by cloud shrouded mountains, it is geographically blessed. The town itself a fusion of exquisite traditional Laos architecture & French colonial influences. There are no monstously massive constructures, no shopping malls, no electronic flashy signs, no traffic lights, no hideous noise, in fact Luang Prabang is special for all the things it doesnt have.

It does have a beautiful blend of Asia & the Mediteranean. An atmosphere that encourages slow walks & long talks around its scenic streets & soi's. Long conversations over an industrial strength Laos coffee is the unhurried style of Luang Prabang.

Once the royal capital of Laos until the communist take-over in 1975. The king & the royal family were interned in prison in the north. It is reported that they died of malaria but no one really knows. Luang Prabang is still the spiritual capital & the many monasteries are quite magnificent & quite old. They are well maintained by the monks who have been taught to preserve them, as part of their merit, in traditional Laos style. Their chanting & drumming can be heard all over & l'm sure contributes to the generally tranquility of the town.

The night market in Luang Prabang is the tidiest & most pleasant market l have ever seen anywhere. It is so polite! Of course bartering is expected but it is performed in such a good natured & civilized manner, it becomes such a joy & so much fun. Unlike many other Asian markets. After agreeing on a purchase & a price, l always feel like l received extra value from the interaction & the experience.

Laos people always seem happy & never complain. It appears that the people dont have alot but they have enough. And they are happy to share it. Because l alaways travel on my own, l am always invited to join in with family meals. I think they feel sorry for me, it would be seen as an extremely sad state of affairs to be eating alone. Laos people are very social & communal, and families sit outside in the balmy evenings sharing food & conversation. They enjoy hearing about the outside world but there is such a contentment in their world, l feel they have little desire to actually go there.
l think they feel blessed. And I think they are too. This endorsed by the fact that so many tourists travel so many miles to visit there.

Luang Prabang can be reached by 2 day boat trip down the Mekong from the Thai border town of Chiang Khong, stopping 1 night in the grotty river town of Pak Beng. Or from the capital Ventiene, 10 hrs by bus, or Vang Vieng, 6 hrs by bus. It is well worth the effort of getting there. And I am looking forward to my return in July. Sitting by the Mekong, sun sinking behind the mountains, crispy cold Beer Laos in hand, an Indonesian cigarette in the other, and all is good with the world.

www.shakespearestravels.com

VOLUNTEERING IN ASIA

Hill tribe child carrying his sibling & fetching water Laos.

Volunteering in Asia is rewarding & life changing. And in the best possible way.It's impossible to return home with the same view of the world that you left with. All the trivial things that use to annoy you become even more trivial but less annoying. And a new appreciation developes for hot & cold running water and flushing toilets. And a realization of how many litres of fresh drinking water we just flush down the toilet!

The reward in volunteering is many times more than the effort of giving. The gratitude is humbling. And for something as simple as speaking English which is the only language l can speak anyway. How wonderful it must be to have a skill or a degree in medicine that can really help their health & welfare. l remember how good it felt to take soap, panadol & antiseptic to an isolated village in Cambodia.

Firstly it is very important to find the right place to spend your time. It should be somewhere or something that you feel passionate about. l have et people who have unfortunately left Asia feeling disappointed with their volunteering experience. Mostly because the organization they have been involved with were merely milking them for money. Sadly this happens. So before you commit your hard earned money that you have already spent a big chunk of time accumulating, and before committing another big chunk of time in volunteering, lots of research & responsibility is required.

Personally l have the time to go where l am passionate about & research it first hand. l have no special skill just the ability to speak English (with an Aussie accent) & the desire to immerse myself in a different culture. Community schools are excellent for this and l have several favourite places that I attend & return regularly. But if time is limited, the internet offers lots of information, recommendations & feedback. I have never paid for the privilege of volunteering & I am in two minds about organizations that charge. Sometimes it is legitimate & it's a form of fundraising. But I am also a bit wary because l have seen so many Lexus cars being driven by NGO personnel. And l have seen orphanages that allow 'sleep overs' for a price!

The best organizations require a police clearance if it involves children. And usually require a commitment of a reasonable amount of time. If you only have a few days here & there on an extended holiday, or even an hour or so, the community schools are the best. And a great opportunity to learn about their culture as well. Also some Buddhist monasteries encourage Westerners to help with conversational English and that's an awesome opportunity to learn about Buddhism & their lives as monks. Of course there are a few rules if you are a woman, like not touching them or their things. I kept forgetting & kept picking up their pens & books. But it was ok.

I have formed heart warming friendships in many countries & thankfully through the internet & facebook, l have managed to stay in contact with them & their families. So if anyone is interested, please contact me. I cannot recommend it highly enough, there is no feeling comparable. I volunteer mostly in Laos & Cambodia. But l have volunteered in lndia, Sumatra, Thailand, Myanmar. Philippines & Kenya. And l also have alot of contacts if that can help.

www.shakespearestravels.com

VANG VIENG TUBING

View over Vang Vieng from my favourite breakfast restaurant.

Vang Vieng is still open for tubing but not in the manner that made it famous. lt was once a mandatory stop-over for drug & alcohol saturated parties for backpackers on the SE Asia trek. And it happened every day, unlike similar destinations that only over-dose on the full moon. Every day, hundreds & hundreds of people on the Nam Song river, floating from one bar to the next, bingeing on Beer Laos & lao lao whiskey, eating 'happy' pizzas & drinking 'happy' shakes, openly smoking weed & easily acquiring opium. But the parties ended up poisoning itself with its excesses & the bars had to be shut down. About thirty people a year were being killed from diving into rocks, drowning or over-dosing.

Now the tubing along the river still happens but without the drugs & alcohol. And it is actually a most beautiful & peaceful journey down the several kilometres of river past the magnificent mountain kaasts. Kayaking down the river is also popular. The scenery is quite over whelming.

The take-off point is near the Organic Mulberry Farm & the farm is sometimes over-looked unfortunately, by travellers just keen to get into the water. But they are denying themselves a special experience in dining. The restaurant there serves up the most delicious organic food & 'to die for' mulberry shakes. Even just a Beer Laos & some deep fried mulberry leaves is such a treat with that stunning view.

There is accommodation there as well & a great opportunity to see the farm at work & learn so much. The farm also supports the Phoudindaeng Community Centre where the children from the local village go to learn English. The community is made up of 3 ethnic groups, Hmong, Kamu & Laos and it is a wonderful & inspiring place to visit. Anyone willing to contribute any spare time, even an hour, will be well rewarded by the experience. The children are very enthusiastic & very friendly. And if anyone can play an instrument or has a special skill to share, it is greatly appreciated. I remember a young South American guy teaching the children to salsa. lt was so much fun!

There is much to do in Vang Vieng & the mountain kaasts provide a spectacular back-drop to the town. They also provide excellent climbing & caving. And it's also great to hire a bike & ride to the blue lagoon, stopping along the way & eating delicious local fruit with the local Laos families. There are still plenty of bars & parties in town but it is nice now that Vang Vieng is being appreciated more for its natural beauty. Go see! Go tubing!

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VANG VIENG TUBING

View over Vang Vieng from my favourite breakfast restaurant.

www.shakespearestravels.com

LAOS, LAND OF ELEPHANTS

 Tialee, my special Hmong friend in Laos, showing me his bow & arrows when his phone rang. We all belong to the same crazy world now.




 LAOS is by far my favourite country & when questioned why, l am unable to answer in simple words, or complex ones either.

 Laos is a landlocked country bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China & Myanmar (Burma).The capital is Vientiene, the smallest capital in Asia. Once part of the famous Golden Triangle along with Thailand & Burma, it was the greatest producer of opium n the world until Afghanistan recently acquired the infamous title. With a population of only 6 or 7 million, it is considered the last or least affected part of Asia.

 Because of its relatively small population compared with its closest neighbours,it feels less frantic & in your face. The people are more relaxed & the night market in Luang Prabang is the most polite & orderly market l have ever visited anywhere. Being mostly Buddhist, they are a gentle & hospitable people & they love to socialize with their favourite brew.

 Beer Laos is the best in SE Asia & its won awards to prove it. lts made from local rice & imported hops, it tastes clean & pure & it slides down perfectly with any meal or occasion. lt's so good, you could drink it for breakfast!

 l met a young South American guy who had been caught short of cash somewhere in Laos. He & his friend had to walk 30 km to an ATM. Along the way they were touched by the generousity of the locals who offered them food & a hut to sleep in. Half of the population of Laos live off $2 a day & yet they helped a couple of foolish Westerners on their way. He told me that it changed his life forever and by the way he told the story, l know he will be paying it forward for a long time.

 Many factors come into place when something is really good & so it is with Laos. There is no one thing that stands out & yet it is all outstanding. Geographically stunning with a breathtaking feel of space which is rare in most of Asia. There are no large gaudy road signs ruining the landscape & very little pollution of any kind .From the majestic cloudy mountains in the north to the lowlands of the south where the Mekong fans out, it's just luverly. l love lovely Laos. Everything about it. lts food, its culture, its scenery, its temples, its festivals, its rivers, its beer & especially its people.

 Their tourism catch phrase is 'Laos, simply beautiful.' That just about sums it up.

 www.shakespearestravels.com