HAMPI, INDIA - HISTORY & HERITAGE

The stone carved chariot is a shrine to Garuda.


Hampi is a city of ruins.  And it's absolutely awesome! A UNESCO World Heritage site for good reason, it was once the capital of the Vijayanagra empire, a wealthy & powerful empire that existed from the 1300's to the 1600's. Though the ruins appeared alot more ancient to me.


I had never heard of Hampi until l was travelling between Kerala & Goa, India. A fellow backpacker recommended going there, a little out of my way, it is inland from the west coast in the state of Karnataka. And l am so delighted that l did. What a gob-smacking surprise!

Visually stunning, the magnificent temples & monuments contrast against the rock riddled landscape. It is awe-inspiring to walk amongst the grandeur & beauty of the religious & royal structures. The site covers about 25 sq km & it is necessary to hire a tuk tuk. Archaeologists & architecture enthusiasts could lose themselves while discovering & exploring everything that historic Hampi has to offer.

Sunrise & sunset sets a wonderful golden glow & energy over the town & its surroundings. It's beautiful viewed from central hill. Now that Hampi is a small rural town, it feels like life has remained unchanged for centuries. In the cool of the evening, the young men play cricket amongst the ruins. And l have fond memories of observing village life & watching the cricket. Their passion for cricket in India is obsessive, or even fanatical. Every TV or radio broadcast in every home, bar or restaurant is tuned into the cricket. And l eventually succombed to their joy in cricket, it's unavoidable. So l always enjoyed watching the children play, anywhere there is room to bowl a ball.

It is a very dry heat in Hampi, 40 odd degrees in the summer. Because it is a religious area, there is no alcohol or meat allowed in the town. Being an Aussie, it was difficult to get through the heat of the day on chai & water alone. There are many roof top restaurants that catch a breeze & offer spectacular views. But overall, the food is disappointing in Hampi.
 A short tuk tuk ride to a neighbouring town can find a cold beer.

There is a wonderful volunteering opportunity at the Hampi Children's Trust. It was begun by a local man & an English man. It is genuine & sincere. The children are educated & fed 3 meals a day. A worthy place to donate school items if time does not allow time to volunteer. Information is easily available & the school  is easily found.

The nearest train station is Hospet about 15 km away. From there, all trains head in all directions. Hampi is well worth the visit & the effort to get there. Accommodation is nothing special but there is an island in the river with some pleasant stays. It is free to enter most historical sites & costs a few rupees in others. Some charge a camera fee but the photos are always sensational stand outs & the experience of Hampi is priceless.

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MUMBAI - via SHANTARAM

GATEWAY TO INDIA.

Mumbai is the most populous city in India & the 4th most populous in the world. And that's the main reason that l had avoided going there for years. And l had been cheating myself out of an awesome experience.

Whilst in Goa, a young local man was surprised that l had never read or even heard of the book 'Shantaram.'  He knew the Australian author & owned a signed copy of the book. And he insisted taking me to a book store & buy it immediately. A bit wary of the size of the book (930 pages) l hesitated because as a backpacker, every ounce counts. And l was already toting a Lonely Planet India which I was sure weighed a couple of kilos. But l am pleased that l did & it became my favourite book ever & inspired me to go to Mumbai.

Travelling on the over-night train, the gothically grand Victoria Terminus is the entry point into Mumbai. Renamed the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in 1996, it is still mostly called VT (Victoria Terminus) by the 20 million people that sprawl through the cosmopolitan metropolis of Mumbai. VT is a UNESCO World Heritage site & it epitomises everything about Mumbai. A combination of Victorian gothic, palacial Indian architecture, the affluences of the British Raj, the influences of the rennaisance, the hub of Indian rail & the throng of the Mumbai masses. They say over 100,000 people pass through VT every day bit l am sure that they let off a zero.

The city was once known as Bombay & it is grand in its British architecture. The Gateway to India is the iconic symbol of Mumbai. The bold basalt arch was built to comemerate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911. It became the ceremonial entrance into India by sea. A monumental memento. Also a top spot for a leisurely walk, to catch a sea breeze & people watch. Directly opposite the imposing & prestigious Taj Mahal Hotel.

Mumbai is a vibrant city of contrasts. An ancient seaport with a modern flair. It is the financial centre od South Asia & yet almost half the population lives in poverty. Centuries old markets sit along side of air-conditioned malls. Skyscrapers alongside slums. It's like it has its feet in two worlds. Once you embrace the chaos & traffic, the heat & the overcrowded trains, you notice the space & occasional places of tranquility.

'Shantaram' captures Mumbai perfectly with his poetic descriptions & analogies. He describes sweetly & vividly the smells, the flavours, the colours, the noise & the feel of Mumbai, every sense is conscious. The book became my best travel companion & is a wonderful talking point when you notice someone else reading it. The movie rights were sold to Johnny Depp but so far the production still has nit begun. An Australian should be playing Gregory David Roberts not Depp. And l doubt if a movie could ever capture the feeling & essence of the book or of Mumbai.
Best thing to do is go there, it is an exciting & exotic city. Definitely a place to embrace & not to be avoided.

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LUANG PRABANG, LAOS. BLISSFULL BUDDHIST & BEAUTIFUL

Monks taking alms, a morning spiritual practice in all Buddhist countries.


Luang Prabang is one of my favourite places on the planet. And for no good reason but for a multitude of excellent reasons.

Luang Prabang is a world heritage UNESCO site and is perfectly perched on a peninsula formed by the Nam Khong river converging into the mighty Mekong. Surrounded by cloud shrouded mountains, it is geographically blessed. The town itself a fusion of exquisite traditional Laos architecture & French colonial influences. There are no monstously massive constructures, no shopping malls, no electronic flashy signs, no traffic lights, no hideous noise, in fact Luang Prabang is special for all the things it doesnt have.

It does have a beautiful blend of Asia & the Mediteranean. An atmosphere that encourages slow walks & long talks around its scenic streets & soi's. Long conversations over an industrial strength Laos coffee is the unhurried style of Luang Prabang.

Once the royal capital of Laos until the communist take-over in 1975. The king & the royal family were interned in prison in the north. It is reported that they died of malaria but no one really knows. Luang Prabang is still the spiritual capital & the many monasteries are quite magnificent & quite old. They are well maintained by the monks who have been taught to preserve them, as part of their merit, in traditional Laos style. Their chanting & drumming can be heard all over & l'm sure contributes to the generally tranquility of the town.

The night market in Luang Prabang is the tidiest & most pleasant market l have ever seen anywhere. It is so polite! Of course bartering is expected but it is performed in such a good natured & civilized manner, it becomes such a joy & so much fun. Unlike many other Asian markets. After agreeing on a purchase & a price, l always feel like l received extra value from the interaction & the experience.

Laos people always seem happy & never complain. It appears that the people dont have alot but they have enough. And they are happy to share it. Because l alaways travel on my own, l am always invited to join in with family meals. I think they feel sorry for me, it would be seen as an extremely sad state of affairs to be eating alone. Laos people are very social & communal, and families sit outside in the balmy evenings sharing food & conversation. They enjoy hearing about the outside world but there is such a contentment in their world, l feel they have little desire to actually go there.
l think they feel blessed. And I think they are too. This endorsed by the fact that so many tourists travel so many miles to visit there.

Luang Prabang can be reached by 2 day boat trip down the Mekong from the Thai border town of Chiang Khong, stopping 1 night in the grotty river town of Pak Beng. Or from the capital Ventiene, 10 hrs by bus, or Vang Vieng, 6 hrs by bus. It is well worth the effort of getting there. And I am looking forward to my return in July. Sitting by the Mekong, sun sinking behind the mountains, crispy cold Beer Laos in hand, an Indonesian cigarette in the other, and all is good with the world.

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VOLUNTEERING IN ASIA

Hill tribe child carrying his sibling & fetching water Laos.

Volunteering in Asia is rewarding & life changing. And in the best possible way.It's impossible to return home with the same view of the world that you left with. All the trivial things that use to annoy you become even more trivial but less annoying. And a new appreciation developes for hot & cold running water and flushing toilets. And a realization of how many litres of fresh drinking water we just flush down the toilet!

The reward in volunteering is many times more than the effort of giving. The gratitude is humbling. And for something as simple as speaking English which is the only language l can speak anyway. How wonderful it must be to have a skill or a degree in medicine that can really help their health & welfare. l remember how good it felt to take soap, panadol & antiseptic to an isolated village in Cambodia.

Firstly it is very important to find the right place to spend your time. It should be somewhere or something that you feel passionate about. l have et people who have unfortunately left Asia feeling disappointed with their volunteering experience. Mostly because the organization they have been involved with were merely milking them for money. Sadly this happens. So before you commit your hard earned money that you have already spent a big chunk of time accumulating, and before committing another big chunk of time in volunteering, lots of research & responsibility is required.

Personally l have the time to go where l am passionate about & research it first hand. l have no special skill just the ability to speak English (with an Aussie accent) & the desire to immerse myself in a different culture. Community schools are excellent for this and l have several favourite places that I attend & return regularly. But if time is limited, the internet offers lots of information, recommendations & feedback. I have never paid for the privilege of volunteering & I am in two minds about organizations that charge. Sometimes it is legitimate & it's a form of fundraising. But I am also a bit wary because l have seen so many Lexus cars being driven by NGO personnel. And l have seen orphanages that allow 'sleep overs' for a price!

The best organizations require a police clearance if it involves children. And usually require a commitment of a reasonable amount of time. If you only have a few days here & there on an extended holiday, or even an hour or so, the community schools are the best. And a great opportunity to learn about their culture as well. Also some Buddhist monasteries encourage Westerners to help with conversational English and that's an awesome opportunity to learn about Buddhism & their lives as monks. Of course there are a few rules if you are a woman, like not touching them or their things. I kept forgetting & kept picking up their pens & books. But it was ok.

I have formed heart warming friendships in many countries & thankfully through the internet & facebook, l have managed to stay in contact with them & their families. So if anyone is interested, please contact me. I cannot recommend it highly enough, there is no feeling comparable. I volunteer mostly in Laos & Cambodia. But l have volunteered in lndia, Sumatra, Thailand, Myanmar. Philippines & Kenya. And l also have alot of contacts if that can help.

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VANG VIENG TUBING

View over Vang Vieng from my favourite breakfast restaurant.

Vang Vieng is still open for tubing but not in the manner that made it famous. lt was once a mandatory stop-over for drug & alcohol saturated parties for backpackers on the SE Asia trek. And it happened every day, unlike similar destinations that only over-dose on the full moon. Every day, hundreds & hundreds of people on the Nam Song river, floating from one bar to the next, bingeing on Beer Laos & lao lao whiskey, eating 'happy' pizzas & drinking 'happy' shakes, openly smoking weed & easily acquiring opium. But the parties ended up poisoning itself with its excesses & the bars had to be shut down. About thirty people a year were being killed from diving into rocks, drowning or over-dosing.

Now the tubing along the river still happens but without the drugs & alcohol. And it is actually a most beautiful & peaceful journey down the several kilometres of river past the magnificent mountain kaasts. Kayaking down the river is also popular. The scenery is quite over whelming.

The take-off point is near the Organic Mulberry Farm & the farm is sometimes over-looked unfortunately, by travellers just keen to get into the water. But they are denying themselves a special experience in dining. The restaurant there serves up the most delicious organic food & 'to die for' mulberry shakes. Even just a Beer Laos & some deep fried mulberry leaves is such a treat with that stunning view.

There is accommodation there as well & a great opportunity to see the farm at work & learn so much. The farm also supports the Phoudindaeng Community Centre where the children from the local village go to learn English. The community is made up of 3 ethnic groups, Hmong, Kamu & Laos and it is a wonderful & inspiring place to visit. Anyone willing to contribute any spare time, even an hour, will be well rewarded by the experience. The children are very enthusiastic & very friendly. And if anyone can play an instrument or has a special skill to share, it is greatly appreciated. I remember a young South American guy teaching the children to salsa. lt was so much fun!

There is much to do in Vang Vieng & the mountain kaasts provide a spectacular back-drop to the town. They also provide excellent climbing & caving. And it's also great to hire a bike & ride to the blue lagoon, stopping along the way & eating delicious local fruit with the local Laos families. There are still plenty of bars & parties in town but it is nice now that Vang Vieng is being appreciated more for its natural beauty. Go see! Go tubing!

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VANG VIENG TUBING

View over Vang Vieng from my favourite breakfast restaurant.

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LAOS, LAND OF ELEPHANTS

 Tialee, my special Hmong friend in Laos, showing me his bow & arrows when his phone rang. We all belong to the same crazy world now.




 LAOS is by far my favourite country & when questioned why, l am unable to answer in simple words, or complex ones either.

 Laos is a landlocked country bordered by Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, China & Myanmar (Burma).The capital is Vientiene, the smallest capital in Asia. Once part of the famous Golden Triangle along with Thailand & Burma, it was the greatest producer of opium n the world until Afghanistan recently acquired the infamous title. With a population of only 6 or 7 million, it is considered the last or least affected part of Asia.

 Because of its relatively small population compared with its closest neighbours,it feels less frantic & in your face. The people are more relaxed & the night market in Luang Prabang is the most polite & orderly market l have ever visited anywhere. Being mostly Buddhist, they are a gentle & hospitable people & they love to socialize with their favourite brew.

 Beer Laos is the best in SE Asia & its won awards to prove it. lts made from local rice & imported hops, it tastes clean & pure & it slides down perfectly with any meal or occasion. lt's so good, you could drink it for breakfast!

 l met a young South American guy who had been caught short of cash somewhere in Laos. He & his friend had to walk 30 km to an ATM. Along the way they were touched by the generousity of the locals who offered them food & a hut to sleep in. Half of the population of Laos live off $2 a day & yet they helped a couple of foolish Westerners on their way. He told me that it changed his life forever and by the way he told the story, l know he will be paying it forward for a long time.

 Many factors come into place when something is really good & so it is with Laos. There is no one thing that stands out & yet it is all outstanding. Geographically stunning with a breathtaking feel of space which is rare in most of Asia. There are no large gaudy road signs ruining the landscape & very little pollution of any kind .From the majestic cloudy mountains in the north to the lowlands of the south where the Mekong fans out, it's just luverly. l love lovely Laos. Everything about it. lts food, its culture, its scenery, its temples, its festivals, its rivers, its beer & especially its people.

 Their tourism catch phrase is 'Laos, simply beautiful.' That just about sums it up.

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