BANAUE & SAGADA - It's more fun in the Philippines

Spent an ear-popping & eye-popping day travelling back through the Cordillera Mountains. The scenery was spectacular, high above the clouds with the occasional splay of rainbows against the dramatic backdrop of intense green peaks. l felt oddly comfortable in the over-crowded bus, it was very cosey. The bus driver displayed remarkable skill as we crept around hairy bends, along sheer rock faces while the rickety bus's brakes were screaming with the strain.


The Banaue Rice Terraces are considered the 8th Wonder of the World.  Along with a long list of many other 8th Wonders of the World, claimed by who knows who.
But it actually is an amazing engineering feat constructed by the ancient Ifagao people. Anthropologists believe they may have migrated down from southern China through Taiwan about two to four thousand years ago. The practice of hanging coffins from cliff faces is also of an ancient south Chinese tradition.



The steep terraces are irrigated by a complex system that is still used today. At a height of 5000 ft, covering more than 400 sq km, one can only imagine how much rice has been produced by this ingenious farming method in the past two thousand years, and hopefully continues for thousands of years more. Though farming has become unpopular among the young people and they prefer to find employment in the tourism industry. The irony is, if the terraces are not protected & maintained, there will be no tourism industry in Banaue.


Batad is a small village with the most impressive view of the World UNESCO Heritage site. The most popular trek from Banaue to Batad can be done within the day including swimming at the waterfall. Best done with a private guide. There are large group treks but it is very limiting without the freedom to move at your own pace and a far less personal experience.

Sagada is another popular little town in the mountain provinces. Well visited by Filipinos & international tourists, for its spectacular & quite adventurous caves. As well the hanging coffins, more rice terraces, trekking and waterfalls. But mostly for its quaint & quiet mountain life-style. There are no tuk tuks or trishaws. The authorities are attempting to protect the mountain culture by enforcing a 10pm curfew throughout the provinces. So there is no noisey music blaring or late night venues. Clear of noise pollution & air pollution, its a virtual mountain retreat.

Because of its difficult terrain, the Spanish conquistadores were thankfully unable to infiltrate the mountain culture. That and maybe the fact that mountain people were well known head hunters was a deterring factor. Anyway the mountain culture was unaffected till much later by missionaries. Today their culture is still very strong & unique with an interesting mix of Christianity & animism.

Manila to Baguio to Sagada to Banaue to Manila, makes a neat & well travelled circle of the Cordillera Mountains. From Manila you catch a Victory Liner bus from Pasay bus station to Baguio, costs about 470 pp. Good quality bus with aircon, wifi & movies. Stops for breaks every couple of hours.  Takes between 6 & 8 hours depending on the time of day & traffic. Buses leave every hour. First class bus costs about 740pp, it's quicker & has a toilet on board.



Baguio is well worth a visit. A cool university city with great live music & night life. There are no hostels throughout the mountains, only guesthouses with private rooms. But there is one in Baguio. 'Upstairs Bed & Bath' is precisely what you get. Extremely basic, it has a good location & wifi. Costs 290 pp for a dorm room.
Buses from Baguio to Sagada only leave in the mornings, last bus around midday. Takes about 6 or 7 hrs & costs about 220 pp. Spectacular views. Accommodation is much the same throughout the cosey town of Sagada, costs about 300pp with wifi & hot water. I have stayed at Sagada Guest House & Clarence Inn. Both good. Quite a few really good restaurants in Sagada.
Jeepney from Sagada to Bontoc costs about 50pp & takes an hour or so. Bus from Bontoc to Banaue costs about 150pp and takes about 2 or 3 hrs. Again buses mostly happen in the mornings.
Wide range of accommodation in Banaue. I have stayed at Sanafe and at Green View. Both offer stunning views from their restaurants. Green View costs 250pp but charges 50pp  more for a hot shower & 20pp to charge phones, ipads ect. Sanafe costs a bit more & is a bit better.
Restaurants are all much the same.

Bus from Banaue to Manila takes about 9 hrs and there's one in the morning & one in the night. Costs about 400pp. Extremely cold air conditioning, definitely need a blanket.
This circle can be done in reverse. I would allow one night in Baguio, 2 nights in Sagada & 2 nights in Banaue, minimum. Alot of hours travelling but it is well worth the effort. A highly unique experience.