VIENTIANE - VENTURE IN LAOS

Vientiane is the largest city in Laos and also its capital city.  It is also the smallest capital city in SE Asia.

Vientiane was originally named Viang Chan, meaning 'city of the moon.' The full moon over the Mekong River is depicted on the Laos national flag. After French colonization, the name was changed to Vientiane due to the French inability to sound the 'ch' sound.
The former capital was Luang Prabang in the north but was moved to Vientiane in 1583 in fear of Burmese invasion.

Vientiane sits on the Mekong river on the Thai/Laos border. It is well worth a visit though there are no particular stand-out 'must see' sights. There is an easy French colonial atmosphere with its great cafes serving delicous flakey croissantes, baguettes and industrial strength Laos coffee. Tres excellant!

The old night market & riverside restaurants that use to spread along the Mekong River were replaced after the flood of 2008. A well needed 2 1/2 metre flood wall was constructed and alot of the unique Vientiane night time atmosphere was washed away. But along the clean paved area next to the flood wall now is a brightly lit colourful market with vendors politely hawking their wares and it is still possible to buy the Vientiane favourite of baguette & pate. The lights of  Thailand can be seen  just across the river.

Victory Gate is well worth the climb up for the panoramic view as well as an insight into Vientiane & Laos history. It is dedicated as a war memorial and looks similar to the famous French L'Arc De Triomphe but on closer viewing it is very Laotin in design & symbology.








The most important national monument in Vientiane is Pha That Luang. It is a huge golden sacred stupa, a revered symbol of Buddhism & national identity in Laos. Believed to have been first built round the 3rd century and enshrining  holy relics of Buddha. Legend has it that monks travelling from India, carrying the ashes of Buddhas ribs, brought them to Vientienne. Every Laos person is expected to pay homage at Pha That Luang in their life time.
A week long festival is celebrated there in November.
Over the centuries the stupa has been ravaged & bombed, then reconstructed. The last reconstruction was after WW II.

There are many ancient & beautiful temples & monasteries around the small city. It is an easy city to walk, very flat with very little congestion. Excellent restaurants offering international cuisine and rooftop bars offering crispy cold Beer Laos and stunning sunset views over the mighty Mekong. Accommodation is not cheap compared to outside the capital. And mostly it is not that great. Hostels & cheap hotels are renowned for bedbugs. I have found the Riverside Hotel a reasonable, clean & well positioned hotel including breaky. It costs about $28 pn per double which is more than I generally pay in SE Asia, there is no single prices.

I have returned there many times, mostly to visit local friends. The family always picks me up & takes me to their home. A duck is killed & cooked in my honour & I buy crates of Beer Laos and ice, and we have a great party, Laos style. Laos people love to drink Beer Laos and party. Last time I was in Vientiane, I took a Swiss guy with me that l had met on the over-night train from Bangkok.
 I explained the usual proceedure and he joked that the ducks must get flighty when they see me coming. We bought all the Beer Laos for the day, the family quickly extends. We both sat on the floor with everyone & passed around the beer. Traditionally in Laos, only one person drinks & then the glass is passed & topped up and passed around. I follow this tradition for one round then I explain to my friends that I am a Westerner & we like to practice our tradition of enjoying our own glass. Alls good and lots of laughter breaks down the sometimes exhausting struggle with each others language. More laughter & more beer. It was my Swiss friend's first visit to Laos and l could see it was a great initiation into Laos. He trusted everything I suggested or advised from then on & we enjoyed a memorable journey through Laos. Laos is my favourite country and Vientiane is as good a place to start.

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