THROW ANOTHER SHRIMP ON THE BARBIE

Fresh local shrimp ready to bbq in Cambodian market.    

Enticing exotic food in Asian markets are so very tempting & so very scary for many Western tourists, especially on their first trip. You can see their minds being torn, arguing with themselves, desperate to join the 'I've eaten insects' club but hearing the well meaning words of loved ones, warning them of the hazards of consuming second rate food in a third world country. While staring at a fried bug in their palm, they're wondering if the taste will stick forever in their mouths or be puked up immediately? Will it be an enlightening experience, opening the gourmet gates to a new world of taste sensation? Or will the experience kill them? Or worse? The in between when one is alive but wishing they were dead. When heaving into an already disgusting toilet bowl in a cheap hostel with shared bathroom. Usually the bug is thrown down whole with a squirmish swallow, followed by lots of water. And they have crossed a new threshold. Bolder next time for having joined the club.

Personally l'll give anything a go. Except deep- fried spiders! Point blank, no discussions involved. No amount of money or assurances that ' It tastes just like chicken,' could coerce me into eating an arachnid. Never ever ever! Not even under the heavy influence of alcohol. In fact even the sight of one would be so sobering an experience, that it would be a terrible waste of a night's allowance of tequila.
Fortunately I have never been ill while travelling (touch wood). I have eaten everywhere from Bali to Delhi without the associated belly being slightly upset. I think the trick is to know your own constitution. Some people can become ill drinking a boiled cup of tea at the poshest hotel in the world. While I've eaten street food in Calcutta & gone back for seconds!


I become a bit disappointed at people who are afraid to try new food experiences purely out of prejudice. They recommend a restaurant because it serves Western style cuisine. Or only eat from McDonalds because they know what they are getting. Oh really!! And McDonald's is so much more expensive than the local food.

An enormous part of a country's culture is its food. And l sympathize with anyone who has a delicate constitution. For me one of the best reasons to go to Mexico would be for its burritos & enchiladas, washed down with its tequila. The entertainment of food markets is to see the weird & wonderful. Pigs' ears, jumping frogs, bird's nests, schools of fish swimming in small buckets, chicken foetus, fried scorpions & locusts, along with aromatic fruits that look like medieval weapons and vegetables that you know on sight will taste terrible but are guaranteed to be good for you. Possibly even aphrodisiacal.

The flavoursome sauces in Asia can transform common grubs into great grub. The Americas would never have been discovered if Columbus had not been in search of a shorter route to the spices of Asia. That along with silk & opiates.


I am so looking forward to getting back to Asia for a $2 talli & a green coconut. My tongue dances with the delicious diversity of food there. I swear I can start smelling it already.

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IDYLLIC ISLANDS OF CAMBODIA

Cambodia is less well known for its tropical islands than it is for its ancient temples. But as tourism has flourished in Cambodia because of its magnificent ancient past, the present traveller is soughting more from their Cambodian experience and expanding away from the jungles. Backpackers generally blaze new trails in tourism & that trail generally heads for the beach. And so it is with the islands of Cambodia.

Facilities on the islands are backpacker basic. But it is one of the last island areas in SE Asia still undeveloped. So the time to experience an untarnished & untampered natural & idyllic environment is NOW. Things are about to ch
ange and luxury development is on its way & it will never be the same again.

When l first visited Cambodia about 10 years ago, the islands & beaches of Cambodia were over-looked in favour of the Thai islands. Even my travel bible at the time, Lonely Planet, hinted that they were not really worth visiting. But over the years, l have heard so much more positive feedback. So after spending much time in Siem Reap, I had been promising to venture down to Sihanoukville, named after the king Sihanouk. Its the main seaside city about 200km south of the capital, Phnom Penh. Catching an overnight bus from Siem Reap & changing buses in Phnom Penh in the morning, there is no direct bus regardless of what is spieled in Siem Reap. Arrived in town in torrential rain & paid for a motorbike to take me to Serendipity Beach. The rain was persistent & it was impossible to get out & about. So what do alot of backpackers do when it rains in Sihanoukville?  Hang out in a hammock & get stoned!
Not that l have a problem with that but I am silly enough with just alcohol. But marijuana is a conversation queller & l dont get the joke. I travel alone & it's more fun for me to enjoy a few laughs over a few Angkor beers. And I lap up hearing regaling tales from all over the world.

After several days of feeling less than serendipity, l headed for the island of KOH RONG which was SO WRONG. There is nothing more tragic than a beautiful tropical island in a tropical deluge. Dope is sold over the bar & a joint costs about 3 bucks and they roll it for you! Reggae is the standard music fare.

Well after one night, I packed my pack & headed back. I could see how extraordinary it all could be and plan on going back in a couple of months. This time to Kep, Rabbit Island & Bamboo Island. And I'm told there is some excellent diving. Apparently there are 2 wrecks of the island of Koh Tang where the last official battle of the Vietnam War involving the United States, took place.
Overall it was difficult to give judgement on Sihanoukville (Snooky). I can definitely see why it has become so popular and ear-marked on the backpacking trail. But I did feel like it was trying too hard to copy some of the famous Thai islands, there was nothing uniquely Cambodian. I am happy to give it another go!

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RAFFLESIA - WORLD'S LARGEST FLOWER

The Rafflesia is the largest flower in the world. It can grow up to one metre in diameter & weigh up to 10 kg in weight! There are several species of Rafflesia and are found only in a few places in SE Asia. And it is becoming more rare, as the rainforests it best grows in, are being diminished by logging & clearing.

The first Western botanist to discover the Rafflesia was a Frenchman in Java in the late 1700's. But his illustrations & notes were seized by the British & were not rediscovered until 1954. Meanwhile in 1818, a British botanist collected another species in Sumatra and named the flower in honour of the very notable Sir Stamford Raffles, modern founder of Singapore.

Also commonly know as the 'corpse flower' because of its stench of rotting flesh. The foul odour attracts flies which transport pollen from male to female flowers.
The time from bud emergence to flowering is about 6 months. Flowering only lasts about 5 days before it begins to rot & smell of decomposing flesh.

The Rafflesia challenges traditional definitions and some botanists are not in agreement. The Rafflesia does not contain chlorophyll so is incapable of photosynthesis. Some claim that it is a fungi. Some claim that it is a parasitic plant. The Rafflesia has no stem, leaves or roots.
It's probably a bit like our Australian platypus, just doesn't fit into a particular box.

The Rafflesia's rarity is becoming rarer and is now
considered endangered. Small pockets in Indonesia, Thailand, Borneo, Malaysia & the Philippines are the only opportunities to see a Rafflesia bloom.
One of the most accessible places is the Cameron Highlands about 4 hrs NE of Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. But of course the Rafflesia is not just growing next to the road and a long hike into the jungle is  involved.
 I went on a full day tour from Tanah Rata. The highlands is not a place you could do on your own, a guide is needed to cover a variety of areas & directions.
We were in a 4 WD so that cut out hours of trekking. Our guide was a passionate local man who took us to a village of the Orang Asli (original people). The indigenous people of Malaysia have been mostly forced to retreat further inland and still live an animistic life in the jungle. We were shown how to use a blow-dart & it was surprisingly easy even with my cigarette clogged lungs. It travelled a fair distance but my accuracy was not quite up with the Orang Asli. The elder explained to our guide where we should go to see a couple of Rafflesias in bloom. The Orang Asli,  I imagine, would be well aware of where there were any buds & blooms, and be pocketing from their knowledge. Good luck to them!
We hiked about an hour in & come across two magnificent blooms. They have 5 petals & are very thick & fleshy. The Rafflesia doesnt really look like a real flower but that is one thing all the botanists agree on, it is the largest flower in the world! We never managed to see, or smell,
any rotting flowers and l think l would like to have experiencd that!
Apart from trekking & 4WDing, there's plenty to see & do in the cool of the Cameron Highlands. Strawberries are considered a very exotic fruit in tropical Malysia, and the Highlands is one of the few places that they grow. There is also several tea plantations and there is nothing more pleasurable than enjoying a cuppa on the plantation from whence it was grown.
Cameron Highlands offers cool respite from the lowlands of Malaysia. Roses grow there!
And it is well worth the scenic drive there in search of the ever elusive Rafflesia.


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BEST HOSTEL IN BUKIT BINTANG, MALAYSIA

Nellie, moi, Melly & Myla at Sunshine Bedz, Bukit Bintang, Malaysia.


The BEST hostel in Bukit Bintang, if not all of Asia, is Sunshine Bedz. The BEST location & the BEST staff & service. My home away from home. Perfectly located opposite the mono-rail in Bukit Bintang, the Golden Triangle for shopping & entertainment in Kuala Lumpur. The variety of restaurants of all nationalities is staggering & also frustratng. There is not enough stomache space to enjoy the full range on offer. Bars ranging from the lrish to the more exotic shisha-smoking bars, are filled with friendly travellers & revellers. And the prospective of good times in good company.

Sunshine Bedz is the BEST place for it's convenience & cleanliness. The staff go 'above & beyond' 24hrs a day to ensure your stay is memorable in the BEST possible way. BEST quality bedding, a rarity in most hostel dorms (female,male & mixed) & also private rooms. Continental breakfast is also included & a midday check-out.

So because of it's great reputation, Sunshine Bedz attracts the BEST back-packers & travellers. (moi being one) Endless tales of travel, humorous & horrible, advice & avoidances, are all well shared. On going friendships begin & promises to meet up further along the road. Late nights out partying & days wasted recovering are inevitable.

But mostly still, it's the staff at Sunshine Bedz that make it special. Patrick, the host with the most, has built up an exceptional place to stay. Now that KL is becoming the hub of Asia, due to the ridiculously affordable budget flights with Air Asia. lt's a smart idea to spend several days here to adjust to the climate & time change, & also to enjoy it's unique hospitality & multi-culture. A must-stay, a welcoming home-away from home environment. Enjoy the BEST!

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OUT OF KENYA

On right, enjoying a Tusk Beer as we leave Nairobi on Ben's 30th birthday.

On Saturday we raised funds to buy mosquito nets for a village in western Kenya. Malaria is still a greater killer than AIDS. The village is 8 or 9 hrs from Nairobi, the nearest town is Siaya about 15km away. There is no running water or electricity & when Margaret Briggs and I visited there we stayed in a modest mud hut & sent our phones into town to be charged so to notify our families of our whereabouts.
The project is the Mboro Village Developement & our good friend Ben is a great leader & supporter of several projects in the Mboro division. We first met Ben when we heard him speak on a sponsored trip to Queensland Australia. He told us of how his brother, Winston, had died in his arms from a Mamba snake bite, unable to get to medical attention. And from what l saw of the medical attention there, it would not have saved his brother's life. Ben then promised his family that he would make things better for his community. When Margaret asked what his priorities were, he replied,
 "Our needs are many, but malaria is killing my people."

So Margaret immediately put into place many fundraisers to raise money for mosquito nets. Since 2010, over 1500 nets have been purchased & handed out to Ben's ever extending community. The bulk of the money has been raised by Margaret Briggs herself from selling tickets in raffles. Each net costs $10.

 Everyone we met in Kenya had suffered from malaria to some degree. And they continue to suffer their whole lives with bouts of fevers. The mosquito nets not only protects them from the deadly disease or on-going sickness, it allows them to sleep at night. Any of us who have complained of a sleepless night due to one annoying mosquito, can comprehend the distress of every night hearing the children crying from mosquito bites. Each family is given one net and the whole family sleeps under it. Grateful of a good sleep & protection from malaria. The women are immeasurably pleased at the improvement to their skin. Due to poor hygiene because of a lack of clean running water, the scratched mosquito bites quickly become  infected, further lowering their immune systems and leaving nasty sores & scars on their skin.


On my first visit to Kenya, l was impressed by the hard work being done by Mblori Women's Group. With the help of money from Ben's brother in Queensland, they had paid for a mill to crush their staple food, the cassava. Now anyone working within the community has free access to the mill. And they are charging a few shillings to others for crushing & are making a profit which has given them hope for bigger plans to buy a tractor. There is now hope in their eyes.

I have seen extreme poverty in other parts of the world but in Kenya I witnessed  hunger. I met people that had not eaten for days.
I have seen the despair of hopelessness and l have seen the face of hope. I believe one of the the greatest gifts to give someone is hope

On my second trip, accompanied by Margaret, there were several self sustaining projects implemented by Ben within his community The hard work of the women of Mblori were a shining examples to the youth group there who had begun a chicken farm. Each family supplied one chicken & the eggs produced were shared amongst the community. A fish farm was hand dug by another group of village members.  Fish were farmed after one year with enough to provide some food to the community and some to be sold. A reasonable profit was earned & donated to orphaned children. How good it must have felt for them to be able to donate & help those less fortunate in their own community!
Another project was the tree & seedling project where they are growing plants for food, shade & medicinal properties. Margaret had done some hard-arsed fund-raising & supplied enough funds for a water-pump to water the trees, otherwise done by hand. She also provided funds for fish food & fingerlings for the fish farm. Plus extensions to other projects, school supplies, sporting equipment and food parcels as well.


Margaret & I bought the supplies in Nairobi & travelled to Siaya by night bus. Which remains one of  my top 10 worst night trips of my life! The combination of a bus devoid of any suspension on a road that was more pot-holed than tarmaced,  resulted with Margaret cracking a rib! Fortunately we were carrying some much needed medical supplies and managed to strap her rib.
Life in rural Kenya is simple and for some extremely difficult. Washing water is pulled up from a near-by well. Drinking water is pumped up from a water-table that is sometimes contaminated  and Ben advised us to drink only bottled water. Mixed occasionally with some Johnny Walker for good measure.

The school was less than basic with no fresh water & very few latrines for the 700 children. One very satisfying & less glamorous project was raising funds for more latrines. Many thanks to the Buderim Theosophical Society for their generous donation. Margaret is now working towards raising funds for a water pump & bore for drinking water at the school and would greatly appreciate any donations, or help, or ideas in achieving this majorly important goal.

Margaret intends travelling back to Kenya later this year. If anyone is interested in joining her or helping in any way, please contact me. We were well looked after by Ben & his family and thoroughly recommend anyone going for a first-hand, life changing experience of Kenya.
But it's not for princesses and conditions are basic. The people are very hospitable & generous with the little that they have. And surprisingly pleased that anyone would care enough for them to travel so far to donate their time or money. The women of the community sang us songs of gratitude in their unique African voices. And like l said, there is no greater gift than hope.
Anyone prepared to get their hands dirty will be well rewarded by the experience. The opportunity of going on safari will be optioned in. Costs will be kept to a minimum. Any profit will be utilized by the project.
Anyone wishing to contribute or donate $10 to supply one family with one mosquito net, please reply on fb, blogger or gmail.

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AYURVEDA FLOURISHMENT

When diet is wrong, medicine is of no use.
When diet is correct, medicine is of no need.
Ayurvedic proverb

On Saturday we were graced with the presence of about 20 people all in search of good food & good health for a good cause. And nothing tastes as good as food prepared & shared with love & laughter.
The fabulous Falu & Michael Eyre generously donated their time & knowledge. And Margaret Briggs graciously opened her home for the Ayurvedic class to raise funds to buy mosquito nets for the village of Siaya in western Kenya.

Ayerveda means ' knowledge of life' and has been practiced in lndia for about 5 thousand years. It is a vegetarian cuisine that can be adapted to all styles & cultures. The balance of the 5 elements of earth, wind, fire, air, & ether present in our bodies,  needs to balance with the same 5 elements in our daily food. The ancient principles can be easily adapted into our daily lives once we learn the basics.

The five elements are connected to our five senses, five fingers, five major organs & five taste sensations. The tongue is of course very important in ayurvedic meals & all  five taste sensations must be stimulated for good health. Our Western diet mostly focuses on sweet & salty. But when we include sour, bitter & pungent, the tongue almost dances with delight. And there is a feeling of satisfaction and less desire to over-eat.


Most Indian food balances the meal with small sambals of pickle or chutney. And also use a base of panch phora, which is the basic  five seeds of coriander, cumin, fennel, fenugreek & mustard. But it can be incorporated into all meals from all over the world. On Saturday we enjoyed an Ayurvedic meal of Mexican guacamole,  Thai papaya salad and an African dish of corn cooked in coconut milk & lila masala, that definitely stimulated every taste bud. We also learnt to create the tastiest daal ever plus curried vegetables and black-eyed peas. Entreed by bread dipped in oil, balsamic vinegar & home- made dukka. And all topped off with silk pudding, an exotic dessert made with yogurt, pistachios & cardamon. Yummo!

Lila masala (green chili paste) is the golden nugget of Ayurvedic cooking & transforms an average meal into an unforgettable, delectable dinner. Easily made in a processor in bulk & can be frozen for long term availability. Made from
 2 bunches of coriander
 1 bunch of mint
 1 whole bulb of garlic
 1 finger of ginger
 juice of 1 lemon
 pinch salt
Process to a paste & store in fridge. Add 1 teaspoon at a time to taste, in curries, sauces, yoghurt, guacamole, dressings ect ect.


At the end of the day , a great day of fun, new friendships & great food ideas were experienced by all. While learning to improve our own health, we were contributing to improving the health of people in Africa. Which is also part of Ayurvedic philosophy which Falu shared throughout the exceptional class. We all raised $740 which represents 74 mosquito nets & will protect 74 families from malaria. Malaria is still a greater killer than AIDS. And not only will they be protected from the disease, they will be able to sleep at night.
What an awesome gift! What an awesome blessing to us all!!

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GO & GET LOST IN KL

What to do in KL.

'Go & get lost', is my advice when people ask me what to do in KL, Malaysia's capital city. The best way to discover a place is to get lost in it. And no matter how many times lve been here, l still manage to get lost while trying to find a short-cut to Chinatown or my favourite lndian restaurant. But then l usually end up discovering my new favoutite restaurant or a great shopping bargain. Kuala Lumpur is a great city for walking, talking, smelling, feeling, tasting & soaking it up. The city has a balanced mix of markets & malls. Chinatown is the icon market & is best seen at night when the red lanterns are lit above the over-crowded Petaling Street. lm greeted by some of the hawkers who recognize my return & jokingly try to sell me something at 10 times its price. l feel like a 'local'. Mammoth shopping malls make the city a shopping mecca. There's nothing you cant buy in Kuala Lumpur & at irrisistable prices. There is even a roller-coaster inside the Times Square mall. And the mall's air-conditioning offers respite from the afternoon heat. There seems to be only one season in KL, hot & wet. No matter what time of year l come here, it's always sweltering  & always raining.

Kuala Lumpur was established in the late 1800's and its modern skyline is dominated by the Petronas Towers, the largest twin towers in the world. The french spiderman, Robert Alain scaled the towers on his third attempt. He stood on the ball at the very top & l shudder whenever l look at them. Spectacular at night, they demand your attention at every opportunity. Malaysians have good reason to feel proud of their icon.

Buddhist & Hindu temples, mosques & churches are dotted throughout the city and there always seems to be a colourful festival on. Exotic & modern has melded as comfortably as has the multi cultures. KL is made up of several districts. Tourists mostly flock to Chinatown, Little lndia & Bukit Bintang and reliable transport connects the whole city. There are city tours and a 'Hop on & off' bus but the traffic is frustratingly congested. When it rains it grid locks. My favourite way to discover a city is to walk it & get lost. One hint though, make sure you have the address or card from the place you are staying. Most people speak very good English and are happy to help & give directions. They are proud of their capital city and want you to enjoy it as well. KL is easy. It's easy to get lost but are ever really lost when you're discovering?

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  Petronas Towers mall and China Town's Petaling Market.

BITTEN BY A RAT IN PENANG

Penang, home of the laksa & the best street food in SE Asia.

I was in Penang when l was attacked by a rat. It was a few years ago, in the Year of  the Rat, and l was hoping it was a lucky sign.
 I didn't manage to win the lottery but l did survive the rat bite which most people would think is pretty lucky in itself.

l say attacked because l honestly don't know what l did to provoke it. I was in Penang's main town of Georgetown,  a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of it's remarkable colonial architecture  & unique townscape.
 I have always liked Penang, even after the rat bite, it has a great atmosphere, a comfortable fusion of Chinese, British & Malaysian cultures. It really is like nowhere else, it's uniquely charming, cultured & relaxed. And if for no other reason,  it is worth going just for the food. Home to the best laksa anywhere in SE Asia, and the possible place of its origin.

Penang is also known as the Pearl of the Orient & is off the north west coast of Malaysia. It became a British trading port in 1786 and  was the first British colony in SE Asia. The town was named after George lll, the mad king george,  and a fort was built & still stands there.  The drains in most of the streets in Georgetown are open, and rats are always prevalent around Asian ports, or any ports. I was dodging traffic & walked close to the drains when the culprit rodent attacked.
 l am guessing l may have stood on its tail, generally they are not aggressive creatures. Its teeth had punctured my foot and I immediately headed for a farmasi ( pharmacy) & was advised to go directly to a klinik (clinic) to see a doktor (doctor).  He was a Chinese doctor who gave me a tetanus shot and a prescription for antibiotic medication & antibiotic creme for the bite. It wasn't for several days later when regaling my latest travel tale to a young Scotsmen, that it was pointed out that l maybe should have had a rabies shot. I had shown no signs of rabies, no frothing at the mouth. Apparently once signs appear, it is already too late. Needless to say, l survived. And some would say l was very lucky.

This year is the Year of the Horse and I was born in the Year of the Horse. So it is believed to be a lucky year for me by the Chinese. I am hoping for a lottery win so l can travel farther afield. The Chinese Horse is a noble symbol of transportation so maybe it will carry me further. Regardless of how l get there, l look forward to returning to Penang.

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